photo: 25 new messages in 18 topics

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Computer Monitor Brightness
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/bb08832048c3aaee
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 9:58 am
From: meow2222@care2.com

naza911@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
> meow2222@care2.com wrote:

> > > but still i have this problem. I
> > > also have a TV which chages the colour of the screen to black. for
> > > example i am watching a film and then the brightness of the screen
> > > begins to reduce until it is totally black. I think that a part has
> > > gone on that. If anyone knows of the part the needs replacing could you
> > > please tell me.

> > No chance, you need to do some fault finding to find the fault.

> I have tried. I tried changing the settings from the Focus Unit. When i
> chage the level of current going into the screen it seems to make it
> worse. so i have reduce that. It has made the pciture darker and it
> takes a little longer before it starts changing the brightness. I
> reduce the focus as well and all that does i prolong the effects. I
> have looked at the circuit board there are obvious signs of a blown up
> part. I have checked the current on the board in different areas it
> looks OK. There is a Switch on the board it have no label on it so i
> didn't mess with it but it might help if anyone knew what is the job of
> switches in TVs. I looks like the sort of switch you would find on a
> toy. I will try and get you a picture to help

There are ways to die inside monitors, so as you dont know what youre
doing I'd suggest leaving it alone. Sometimes thre are more important
issues than a dim or flickery picture.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: blown output transistors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/84f4809698b8b0ea
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 10:00 am
From: meow2222@care2.com

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
> meow2222@care2.com wrote:

> > then youve still got as set of output trannies yu can use in a
> > project. Not often I'd say forget it, but with dc amps I wouldnt
> > bother.

> Practically all the amps I work on are dc coupled. Not a problem in most
> cases.
> Virtually all your Kenwood, Pioneer,Sansui, etc going back to 1970 or so are
> DC coupled.
> Modern amps like Denon, Yamaha, Onkyo, etc are all pretty similar in
> topology. Certain components tend to go out along with the outputs
> (resistors and driver transistors for example) and symptoms such as
> premature clipping, DC offset etc have predictable causes.
> As to the OP, it does seem his piece is quite possibly a "piece" all right,
> but I'm not at all sure I'd classify it as such a difficult repair simply
> because it may be a "DC" amp. As I say, I fix such amps all the time. No
> problem.
>
> Mark Z.

which puts you in a very different position to the OP.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony verse Mitsubishi
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/fb701dc25589bf9b
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 12:03 pm
From: Andrew Rossmann

In article <FYreh.1796$BL4.38@bignews2.bellsouth.net>,
jakdedert@bellsouth.net says...
> Andrew Rossmann wrote:
> > [This followup was posted to sci.electronics.repair and a copy was sent
> > to the cited author.]
> >
> > In article <1165546981.211888.93520@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com>,
> > stokesb@cox.net says...
> >> I am looking at buying a rear projection HDTV. I'm partial to Hitachi,
> >> but am looking at the Sony KDS line, and the Mits DLP's. From a tech
> >> stand point, which would tend to be the long term runner between these
> >> technologies as far as dependability? Any thoughts would be greatful.
> >
> > One item to know is that most DLP's (unless you are willing to spend
> > $$$$$$$$$$) have only a single mirror chip. It generates the 3 colors by
> > having a little wheel with colored lenses spin between the light source
> > and the mirrors to generate the colors. You can often see a rainbow
> > streak on fast movements, or if you move your head.
> >
> > Some newer DLP's are using LED's to generate the colors. Some newer
> > DLP's are spinning the wheel faster to minimize the rainbow effect.
> >
> They're also adding color segments to the wheel so that each revolution
> produces each color two or more times....

What gets me is you have this super-high-tech, HDTV, and it has a
mechanical motor and a spinning wheel in it!! Makes me think of the
original CBS color TV process approved in the US before saner heads
prevailed. It was quickly rescinded and changed to NTSC.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ntsc

I have CRT HDTV (direct view), and probably won't update until LED or
similar backlighting becomes more standard. Replacing an expensive lamp
every 2 or so years seems like a step backwards to tube electronics!!!

--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.att.net/~andyross

==============================================================================
TOPIC: NEC MT1040 Calibration software
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/4c81d0989d21bf0e
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 1:06 pm
From: coffee

This is a shot in the dark but just thought I would ask.

Ive got a NEC MT1040 projector that needs to be calibrated. I understand
that special software is needed to do this. I also understand that its
proprietary software from NEC.

My problem is that my colors are off. I think its called convergence. The
projector displays several colored lines instead of just one line.

Anyone have any idea how to repair this myself or on the cheap?

Thanks,

--
-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Coffee
-=-=-=-=-=-=-

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 12:16 pm
From: jakdedert

coffee wrote:
> This is a shot in the dark but just thought I would ask.
>
> Ive got a NEC MT1040 projector that needs to be calibrated. I understand
> that special software is needed to do this. I also understand that its
> proprietary software from NEC.
>
> My problem is that my colors are off. I think its called convergence. The
> projector displays several colored lines instead of just one line.
>
> Anyone have any idea how to repair this myself or on the cheap?
>
> Thanks,
>
In many (all?) projectors, this is a matter of *physically* aligning the
three separate lcd panels. I'm not aware of any which can be aligned
electronically.

Has the projector been dropped?

jak

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need help wiring a breadmaker motor.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/abd1610b19e8d3e1
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 10:05 am
From: meow2222@care2.com

Sjouke Burry wrote:
> rspartacus@gmail.com wrote:

> > I have a reversable motor removed from an Oster breadmaker. I want to
> > use it on a project because the motor runs very quiet. The motor is a
> > 60Hz 120V motor that has three wire. Red, white and blue. The white
> > wire goes to nuetral on the AC outlet. The other two wires goes to a
> > circuit which has two transistors, capacitors and more. When I measure
> > these two wires they show 120V AC (forward spin) and 150V AC (reverse
> > spin.)
> >
> > This motor is probably a DC motor, I don't know for sure. The circuit
> > board is thrown out and all I have is the motor. How do I power up this
> > motor?
> >
> > Thanks

> At a quess, a capacitor goes in series with one of the
> remaining wires, so white to neutral, the other two to
> power, but one of them with the cap in series.
> I hope you noted the value of the caps on the cicuit
> board , but depending on the size of the motor,
> something between 1 and 10 microfarad,200 volts.
> When you swith the two wires between direct and cap,
> you should reverse the rotation direction.
> If you are carefull, the only damage would be
> some smoke or a blown fuse if this story does not hold.
> Stand well back when you switch the power on. :)

Doing your initial testing with the thing in series with a lightbulb
should prevent the magic smoke getting out, the light repels any
emergent smoke back inside.
Try some different cap values to maximise its speed. Once done, let it
see real mains, and repeat the cap maximisation exercise but only using
values close to the best one you selected with the lamp.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: nomad 425sxl
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/7b8dd21c3ab4be12
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 2:40 pm
From: "Michael Kennedy"

If you happen to be runing windows on this maching, you can use direct cable
connection to connect two computers with a null-modem cable with the serial
ports or the LPT printer ports.

Example
http://kb.iu.edu/data/ahcj.html

- Mike

"george" <gjdbxxxx@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1165679936.775707.184390@16g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...
>I am using the subject laptop to read temperatures out of a cistern
> and to control the temperature (eventurally). My access to the innerds
> of the computer went caput when the floppy quit working. So 2
> questions: 1) The floppy looks like it should come out. Anybody have
> any suggestions on how. I pulled the little cover off but it beats me
> how the drive comes out. 2) I would like to use the 25 pin port
> (nominally the printer port) as a connector to an electronic device
> like a disk so I can get away from the floppy. Anybody ever seen
> anything like this?
>
> George
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TEK 2225 Service Manual Request.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/40c6d033f2308629
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 7:50 pm
From: Jim Flanagan

Jim Yanik wrote:
> Jim Flanagan <jflan@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in
> news:8vqeh.18849$%u3.3860@tornado.tampabay.rr.com:
>
>
>>Hi...
>>Does anyone have or know where I can find a free pdf download of this
>>manual. I was given one of these scopes and am looking to fix it up
>>to donate to my son's high school physics class.
>>
>>If anyone would help out, it would be appreciated.
>>Thanks -
>>-jim
>>
>
>
> http://bama.sbc.edu/tektroni.htm ??
>
Thanks, Jim...
I already checked there. They only have the operations manual.
Is there another model which is similar enough, so that if I find
it's service manual that it would suffice in helping me repair mine?

Take care - Jim

==============================================================================
TOPIC: looking for smps IC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/cdaef4f267723f97
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 8:04 pm
From: Luddite

From a Dell 1504fp display power supply this IC feeds the primary side of
the transformer.
I cant find it listed anywhere going through all the permutations of its
markings.
anyone recognize it?

http://pages.ripco.net/~a2k/junk/supply-ic.jpg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How are standards for components like Firewire connectors created?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/b2ab5147d28cde20
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 3:15 pm
From: Robert Haar

On 12/9/06 7:32 AM, "Richard Crowley" <rcrowley@xpr7t.net> wrote:

> "Doc" wrote ...
>> Is this a Sony design or are all 4-pin Firewire ports made that way?
>> It's just really dumb that they deviated from the example of the 6-pin
>> connector which is much more robust with embedded connectors on both
>> the cable and port ends.
>
> You can blame Apple. They originally developed
> it and it became an IEEE staendard ("IEEE 1394")

While Apple originated the Firewire protocol (a.k.a. IEE 1394), I don't
believe that they ever used the connector design that they ever used the
connector design that the OP described. All the Apple equipment that I have
seen uses six conductor design.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 3:21 pm
From: Robert Haar

On 12/9/06 3:15 PM, "Robert Haar" <rlhaar@comcast.net> wrote:

> On 12/9/06 7:32 AM, "Richard Crowley" <rcrowley@xpr7t.net> wrote:
>
>> "Doc" wrote ...
>>> Is this a Sony design or are all 4-pin Firewire ports made that way?
>>> It's just really dumb that they deviated from the example of the 6-pin
>>> connector which is much more robust with embedded connectors on both
>>> the cable and port ends.
>>
>> You can blame Apple. They originally developed
>> it and it became an IEEE staendard ("IEEE 1394")
>
> While Apple originated the Firewire protocol (a.k.a. IEE 1394), I don't
> believe that they ever used the connector design that they ever used the
> connector design that the OP described. All the Apple equipment that I have
> seen uses six conductor design.
>
I should have said that this is for Firewire 400. The connectors for
Firewire 800 are 9 pin.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 2:04 pm
From: stauffer@usfamily.net

Doc wrote:
> As noted in a previous thread, I had problems with a Firewire 4-pin
> connector in a camcorder and after giving it a close examination
> realized that the configuration for the port is ill conceived. The
> cable end has 4 flat contacts embedded in plastic material, while the
> port in the camcorder has 4 flimsy little tines that mate up with
> contacts on the cable end. Highly subject to damage if they get grabbed
> the wrong way.
>
> Is this a Sony design or are all 4-pin Firewire ports made that way?
> It's just really dumb that they deviated from the example of the 6-pin
> connector which is much more robust with embedded connectors on both
> the cable and port ends.

I will address the question in the title, rather than specifically the
IEEE 1394, except to say that the MATERIAL for the connectors might not
even be a part of the standard. There is much more to the standard,
such as signal protocols, and such, and likely more deliberation was
given to these aspects than the mechanical design of the connectors. I
have sat on a standards committee (though for an avionics standard, not
a photography standard- though I have had acquaintences on imaging
ones).

Any such standard is put together by some society or professional group
(in this case the Institute of Electrical and Electronic Engineers.
The group decides there is a need for such a standard and seeks to
create a committee (or subcommittees at times for major standards,
splitting up the effort). This work is unpaid volunteer effort, with
the employer of the committee members picking up the tab for the
people's salary and the travel expenses. The for-profit businesses are
willing to spring for this in particular if they are or have developed
a standard that they want to become the standard- this is good
practice. Others, however do it just to faciliate progress in the
technology. In addition to for-profit companies, research
organizations and educational ones also frequently contribute members.
Sometimes the committee comes up with a completey new standard,
sometimes it adopts some existing protocol if it is available and the
committee thinks it is the best route. There is a LOT of politics
involved in such committees and the results are (or at least SHOULD BE,
decided by consensus.

As a side note, I am a little bit familiar with the JPEG effort, and
fail to see how someone can patent JPEG itself. I am assuming that the
patent is for a SPECIFIC algorithm for the compression or
decompression, and NOT for the standard itself. I have seen articles
claiming the latter, which I do not understand :-(

==============================================================================
TOPIC: noise/interference lines in TV when there is a surge of power
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/c5c0df69b7548995
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 12:46 pm
From: beowulf19@iwon.com

Well, after experimenting some more...let me try to provide some
additional information.

My current setup:
36" CRT Television
DVD player - SVHS output to the A/V
A/V receiver SVHS output to the Television
Cable plug into the TV

In this setup, there are major interference lines in the TV anytime the
subwoofer bass kicks in. This is when I'm watching the DVD video
playing the DVD audio. Now, if I switch the video to the cable input
(while still playing the DVD audio), I do not notice any interference
lines in the TV when the Subwoofer draws powers.

Next, I switch the A/V receiver to play audio from the FM tuner. I
switched the video to display the DVD video. The TV interference lines
still present.

I then changed the setup by taking the DVD SVHS output and going
directly to the TV input (bypassing the receiver). I kept the A/V
receiver audio output on the FM tuner, the interference lines where NO
longer present. I then switch the a/v receiver to the DVD audio, the
interference line were slightly present but only at high volume scenes.

Unplugging the cable from the TV had the same result.

In all cases, the cable video didn't seem to be affected by the
subwoofer. (When I turned on a power drill or large appliance on...in
that cases....a few white specs appear in the tv....but this is very
slight.)

I did notice when I plugged the cable into the TV...the subwoofer makes
a hum/buzz when the subwoofer's volume is turned high. Removing the
cable, I can turn the subwoofer's volume to max and no hum or buzz at
all. So, this may be a different problem. Maybe a ground loop issue?

During all my experiments, there were no diming of the lights in the
house. The speakers play clean without any static.

Note: I did try plugging the TV and DVD player into the UPS and have
it run competely off the battery. But, I'm unable to plug the A\V
receiver and have it run off the battery without causing an overload
condition. I still got the interference lines when playing the DVD
audio thru the receiver as mentioned above.

I'm not sure how the house is wired, so I can't comment on that yet.
House built in the early 80's.

Anyway, hopefully the extra information will help. I'm still unsure
what I should try next to eliminate the problem. Obviously, I can
route the DVD video directly to the TV to minimize the issue...but that
still doesn't correct the problem.

Any help or additional suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks!
PC

==============================================================================
TOPIC: VCR stops early in timer-recording
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/94e0f623a55961b8
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 12:55 pm
From: "fjp999"

Thanks everyone for their suggestions.

I have another tape in the machine which gave me the same problem
yesterday but not today. Got my three hours as instructed. And yes the
machine is set to record EP as I am already getting over two hours even
when it doesnt respond accurately.

Anyways, will mark this somewhat resolved, by itself, but will come
back for more suggestions if, cross ones fingers, that it ever returns.

thanks again all,
frank

Homer J Simpson wrote:
> "fjp999" <fjppaoh@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1165603621.163058.159510@j44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> > The timer recording stopped before the three hours. I noticed it and
> > pressed the record button three times so that it would record for
> > another hour and automatically stop. I let it go and then noticed that
> > it stopped early as well.
>
> Try a different brand of tape first.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 9:13 pm
From: "Homer J Simpson"

"fjp999" <fjppaoh@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1165697728.583868.282240@f1g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> I have another tape in the machine which gave me the same problem
> yesterday but not today. Got my three hours as instructed. And yes the
> machine is set to record EP as I am already getting over two hours even
> when it doesnt respond accurately.

I have many tapes which play and wind fine while one from the same batch
won't rewind and stops while recording. Some are just bad.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: silver, gold, silver, black, brown Who can read its value?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/49ce05c765e240f6
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 9:56 pm
From: Ole Geisler

On 8 Dec 2006 17:51:57 -0800, "hotjomo" <hotjomo@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hi, it's the color code on a resistor, I'm unsure its order is silver,
>gold, silver, black, brown
>or brown, black, silver, gold, silver.
>I never seen color code like this before, anyone know how to read it ??
>thank you.

0.1 Ohms

Brown - black - silver

1 - 0 - x0.01

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Free-to-try audio test & measurement tools
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/c52bb3483ff41c1
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 9:52 pm
From: no@spam.invalid (TestGuru)

Free to download and try.

website: http://www.virtins.com
PC version: http://www.virtins.com/SCMISetup.exe

Pocket PC version: http://www.virtins.com/PocketINSSetup.exe

Virtins MultiInstrument consists of a sound card dual trace
oscilloscope, a real time spectrum analyzer, and a signal generator
and can run them concurrently. It features a specially designed data
acquisition approach, which is able to monitor the input signal
continuously without missing any trigger event before a frame of data
is collected. It has a very fast screen refresh rate. It supports
sophisticated triggering method including pre-trigger and
post-trigger. A comprehensive range of functions are provided,
including waveform addition and subtraction, Lissajous Pattern,
transient signal recording, voltmeter, RMS amplitude spectrum,
relative amplitude spectrum, octave
analysis(1/1,1/3,1/6,1/12,1/24),THD, THD+N, SNR, SINAD, peak hold,
phase spectrum, auto correlation, cross correlation, function
generation, multitone generation, arbitrary waveform generation,
white noise and pink noise generation and sweep signal generation. It
Supports 8, 16, 24 bits and multilingual user interface, including
English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Portuguess, Simplified
Chinese, Traditional Chinese, Japanese, and Korean.

http://www.virtins.com/img/SCMIAnim.gif
[img:da4ec58cb7]http://www.virtins.com/img/PocketINSProbeAnim.gif[/img:da4ec58cb7]

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tektronix Scope - Slide Switch Problems - What type of safe lubricant
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/d270f0749ced0a2d
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 9:56 pm
From: Jim Flanagan

Hi...
The Tek scope that I recently acquired has a number of front panel
slide switches that do not operate very well. Most have a rough
action and are sometimes difficult to move back and forth. I tried
using Craig labs DeOxit, which seems to clean up any electrical problems
but I need some type of lubricant which would be safe, electrically.

I would prefer to just replace the switches, but I've searched high and
low. It seems that my only alternative is to recondition the originals.

Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks -
jim

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 10:19 pm
From: "N Cook"

Jim Flanagan <jflan@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:aiGeh.9759$yj1.8465@tornado.tampabay.rr.com...
> Hi...
> The Tek scope that I recently acquired has a number of front panel
> slide switches that do not operate very well. Most have a rough
> action and are sometimes difficult to move back and forth. I tried
> using Craig labs DeOxit, which seems to clean up any electrical problems
> but I need some type of lubricant which would be safe, electrically.
>
> I would prefer to just replace the switches, but I've searched high and
> low. It seems that my only alternative is to recondition the originals.
>
> Any advise would be appreciated.
> Thanks -
> jim

somewhere on my files
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tips.htm
or
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tips2.htm
is reconditioning of slide switches

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony TC-366 Mains selection.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/c2a29bf8970241fd
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 2:50 pm
From: adrian_h_hudson@yahoo.com

Hi,

Can anyone advise me on the correct, North American, position for the
voltage selector on my Sony TC-366 tape recorder? The label that
should guide me is detached!

Appreciated

Adrian

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 11:16 pm
From: "Homer J Simpson"

<adrian_h_hudson@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1165704611.012457.86660@j44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> Can anyone advise me on the correct, North American, position for the
> voltage selector on my Sony TC-366 tape recorder? The label that
> should guide me is detached!

Two position? If so, try both. It won't run well on the 240 V setting. If it
has lights, the brightest setting.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: New LCD TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/e8794dfa647c1359
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 3:14 pm
From: "Miggidy"

I don't know if this is the right place to ask this question, but I'll
ask it anyway. I just bought a $2,000 dollar Sony 40" 1080 LCD tv
(Sony KDL-40V2500). We don't have an HD box, but do have some nice
Monster cables and all of that stuff. When I hooked up my DirectTV box
to the tv, the picture quality is absolutely horrible, even worse than
my old crappy tv. The dvd's look pretty good, but nothing like it did
in the store.

When I turn on a dvd it flashes 480i in the left corner. I'm not a
genius, but isn't that pretty bad? How do i get the resolution higher
than that? Anything will help. Thanks in advance.

Mark

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 11:37 pm
From: CJT

Miggidy wrote:

> I don't know if this is the right place to ask this question, but I'll
> ask it anyway. I just bought a $2,000 dollar Sony 40" 1080 LCD tv
> (Sony KDL-40V2500). We don't have an HD box, but do have some nice
> Monster cables and all of that stuff. When I hooked up my DirectTV box
> to the tv, the picture quality is absolutely horrible, even worse than
> my old crappy tv. The dvd's look pretty good, but nothing like it did
> in the store.
>
> When I turn on a dvd it flashes 480i in the left corner. I'm not a
> genius, but isn't that pretty bad? How do i get the resolution higher
> than that? Anything will help. Thanks in advance.
>
> Mark
>
Didn't it come with a manual?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV Brightness control slipping
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/90a3e10644cad010
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 4:18 pm
From: theonetrueBob@webtv.net (Bob Hanson)

Greetings All,

I really do not frequent this group... but I now have a problem and
would welcome ANY advice.
My now malfunctioning TV is an old Sony 27" (model KV-27S35),
manufacture date: January, 1997. It has been typically run an average
of 15 hours per day.

Problem:

When I have my brightness control actually set all the way down, the
color is (Briefly!) good and perfectly even throughout all the hues.
However, it tends to rapidly increase so that what should be black, and
in fact the entire screen, becomes blurred under a green tint. This
includes overly bright (and of course green) bands above and below the
images during letterboxed presentations.
Problem occurs regardless of what is input (VCR, DVD, cable, etc).
If I switch to an unused function, which therefore just shows a black
screen, the brightness slowly fades back down to black in 5-10
seconds,... but, when changed back to the active image presentation, it
once again begins to brighten and color everything in a bright green
tint.

So,... Questions:

Is this something which can be repaired ... uh,... cheaply?

Or, is there perhaps an accessible "re-set" switch inside the cabinet
which can simply be tweaked to re-calibrate the brightness setting.

Is the picture tube just reaching the end of its life?... and perhaps
going Green "Super-Nova" on me is my warning to save room in the
dumpster?

Appreciate any suggestions, info, and advice before I give up and buy
[groan] yet another TV.

Thanks!
Bob H.
Albuquerque, NM, USA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Odd GE TV EEPROM problem.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/b636f0d604cb8078
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 9 2006 4:32 pm
From: Andy Cuffe

On 8 Dec 2006 06:16:27 -0800, "Dani" <greeben@gmail.com> wrote:

>Model # 25GT522JX2, Chassis # CTC177AF3, was dead, onboard tuner was
>very bad, & corrupted the EEPROM. Repaired the tuner, & put in a new
>EEPROM from a CTC177AF...slightly different, but ok for test! Now, on
>the first page of the customer menu, the SAP section is blank, & see
>thru. Did the "write trick" by turning the set off & installing the old
>EEPROM while pluged but turned off!
>Now the old EEPROM has more sensible info in it, but with either
>EEPROM, pressing the menu button a couple of times the set will shut
>down, or lock up the set, even make the tuner tune off frequency, it's
>doing all kinds of wild things. Is the Micro bad? I never saw this
>before. Ideas anyone? Thanks, Dani.

The menu problem with the wrong EEPROM is pretty normal. Get the
correct EEPROM and it should work ok. You should power the set on
with the new correct EEPROM installed, then swap the original bad
EEPROM in (with the set running) and enter service mode to write down
all the tuner settings.

That procedure has never failed me. I've seen some very strange
symptoms when the EEPROM was corrupted. I had one that wouldn't come
into horizontal sync, no matter how I adjusted the horizontal
frequency. A new EEPROM fixed the set.
Andy Cuffe

acuffe@gmail.com

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Saturday, December 9, 2006

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