photo: 25 new messages in 11 topics

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Power Designs Bench PS: schematic?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/6f8b56bc6178d559?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 1:38 pm
From: et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Michael Black)

DaveC (me@privacy.net) writes:
>> Why do you need the schematic? It is almost certainly going to be an
>> absolutely bog-standard mains transformer followed by series pass linear
>> regulators.
>
> I would add that one's need for a schematic for any circuit is inversely
> proportional to that person's expertise in the art of electrons.

I suspect people get something out of taking things apart. IN doing that,
they make the piece of equipment less of a black box, and putting their
hands on it when they can't hurt it (because they've decided it's junk
already) takes away some of the fear.

Tracing the circuit is another way. There is fear of not knowing what's
there, there is fear of some mystery circuit. Yet tracing the circuit
gives you intimate contact with the unit. It's something as valuable
as just taking junk apart, in devaluing the mystery.

And as he said, it's likely to be pretty standard. And that's one of
the tricks of circuit tracing. Get a bit of information, and then make
the assumption that it's a fairly standard circuit based on that information.
So if it uses a certain IC, you look at the manufacturer's datasheet or
application note for the device, and then use the "suggested circuit" and
see if the unit's circuit matches that.

The beginner will always approach things in the "it must be a mystery, I
need a schematic". But, it's not always beyond them, it's merely that
they perceive a big first step. But the "oldtimer" who is capable in
such things, they likely got capable because they got over that perceived
need for a schematic, and they started signal tracing and making assumptions
that the circuit will be fairly standard. Hence the move to an "oldtimer" can
be shortened by making that step early.

Michael

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Verify a(maybe) dying diode caused by a bad capacitor???
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/98a1d9d1116084b3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 1:39 pm
From: "Charles Schuler"

<saturnlee@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1173731469.549670.202200@v33g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
>I have just fixed an power supply by replacing a bulging capacitor.
>
> The capacitor is connected to diode. And the diode becomes hot and
> makes a black spot on the board since the faulty cap.
>
> I check the diode with a multimeter and it tests great.
>
> The repaired power supply( cap replaced) has been tested for several
> hours and no problem yet.
>
> Question: Is there any way to check whether the diode is working
> 100% ?

Diodes are cheap. It was stressed. Replace it.

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 2:32 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 13:31:09 -0700, saturnlee wrote:

> I have just fixed an power supply by replacing a bulging capacitor.
>
> The capacitor is connected to diode. And the diode becomes hot and
> makes a black spot on the board since the faulty cap.
>
> I check the diode with a multimeter and it tests great.
>
> The repaired power supply( cap replaced) has been tested for several
> hours and no problem yet.
>
> Question: Is there any way to check whether the diode is working
> 100% ?
>

Mostly they either work or don't. Short or open. Spend a buck and
replace it.

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 2:45 pm
From: david@drumheller.org

On Mar 12, 4:31 pm, saturn...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have just fixed an power supply by replacing a bulging capacitor.
>
> The capacitor is connected to diode. And the diode becomes hot and
> makes a black spot on the board since the faulty cap.
>
> I check the diode with a multimeter and it tests great.
>
> The repaired power supply( cap replaced) has been tested for several
> hours and no problem yet.
>
> Question: Is there any way to check whether the diode is working
> 100% ?
>
> Thanks!

It seems like the repair worked, but the hot diode concerns me. Your
description is a little hard to understand. Did the diode get hot
before or after the capacitor was replaced?

In any case, the black mark by the diode isn't a good sign. Whether
the mark was cause by the diode overheating or leakage from the
bulging capacitor, I would replace it. As another poster tersely
pointed out, diodes are inexpensive.

For a definitive measurement, don't test the diode in place. Rather,
unsolder one of its leads from the circuit board and then test it with
your voltmeter's continuity checker.

-Dave

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 3:43 pm
From: "Jeroni Paul"

By your descriptions it looks like your supply is working fine. It is
normal for some components to warm up and if it were faulty you would
see some problem with your supply. If it works, don't mess with it.

saturnlee@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have just fixed an power supply by replacing a bulging capacitor.
>
> The capacitor is connected to diode. And the diode becomes hot and
> makes a black spot on the board since the faulty cap.
>
> I check the diode with a multimeter and it tests great.
>
> The repaired power supply( cap replaced) has been tested for several
> hours and no problem yet.
>
> Question: Is there any way to check whether the diode is working
> 100% ?
>
> Thanks!

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 4:12 pm
From: Sam Goldwasser

david@drumheller.org writes:

> On Mar 12, 4:31 pm, saturn...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > I have just fixed an power supply by replacing a bulging capacitor.
> >
> > The capacitor is connected to diode. And the diode becomes hot and
> > makes a black spot on the board since the faulty cap.
> >
> > I check the diode with a multimeter and it tests great.
> >
> > The repaired power supply( cap replaced) has been tested for several
> > hours and no problem yet.
> >
> > Question: Is there any way to check whether the diode is working
> > 100% ?
> >
> > Thanks!
>
> It seems like the repair worked, but the hot diode concerns me. Your
> description is a little hard to understand. Did the diode get hot
> before or after the capacitor was replaced?
>
> In any case, the black mark by the diode isn't a good sign. Whether
> the mark was cause by the diode overheating or leakage from the
> bulging capacitor, I would replace it. As another poster tersely
> pointed out, diodes are inexpensive.
>
> For a definitive measurement, don't test the diode in place. Rather,
> unsolder one of its leads from the circuit board and then test it with
> your voltmeter's continuity checker.

If it tests good in-place, it won't test bad when removed. :)

However, the inverse (??) may be true.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/

+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm

| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 5:53 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeroni Paul" <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es> wrote in message
news:1173739418.529858.27780@t69g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
> By your descriptions it looks like your supply is working fine. It is
> normal for some components to warm up and if it were faulty you would
> see some problem with your supply. If it works, don't mess with it.
>
> saturnlee@yahoo.com wrote:
>> I have just fixed an power supply by replacing a bulging capacitor.
>>
>> The capacitor is connected to diode. And the diode becomes hot and
>> makes a black spot on the board since the faulty cap.
>>
>> I check the diode with a multimeter and it tests great.
>>
>> The repaired power supply( cap replaced) has been tested for several
>> hours and no problem yet.
>>
>> Question: Is there any way to check whether the diode is working
>> 100% ?
>>
>> Thanks!
>

I see lots of bulging caps in the power supplies of cheapo DVD players - I
probably repair 2 or 3 a week on average. I have found it very rare indeed
for the feeding diode to actually be faulty. Usually, it's just a case of
replace the cap, and that's it. It is not at all uncommon for the diodes in
these supplies to run very hot, and discolour the board. Sometimes, if there
is room, I bend a small piece of metal around the body of the diode, with a
bit of heatsink paste in there as well, to help cool it down a bit. Bear in
mind if you do replace it that it will be a Schottky type ( I'm assuming
that this is a switch mode PSU ??? )

Arfa

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 2:38 am
From: James Sweet

Is the power supply being overloaded? If it's not and the output voltage
is correct, I wouldn't worry about a warm diode.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Noisy Fluke 6060A/AN signal generator
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/f9862bcb6301e852?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 1:55 pm
From: "Homer J Simpson"

"Ancient_Hacker" <grg2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1173703404.454187.298630@q40g2000cwq.googlegroups.com...

> Yipes. The Fluke 60xx generators are very complex and touchy. There
> are very complex delay-line phase-noise-reduction loops, with about a
> dozen delicate adjustments, plus a handful that are "factory adjust
> only". Plus a few adjustments that are burned into a EPROM.

Yeah, that sounds like a robust, field proof design.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: AV repairs
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/efca8f90515a318d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 2:22 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On 8 Mar 2007 13:37:06 -0800, "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com"
<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>I disassembled the motor cleaned it and lubricated it with ATF. It
>appears to be in very good condition. There is no end play in the
>bushings and very little apparent wear. It starts better now and comes
>right up to full speed, however the speed is 1720RPM either loaded or
>running free. Same as before the cleaning. There seems to be four
>poles which would suggest 1800RPM as you mentioned. Is it
>theoretically possible for a four pole motor to operate at 1720RPM?
>Varying the line voltage around 120V has very little effect on speed
>so it appears that it is running synchronously. There is no capacitor
>externally or internally. I just can't imagine what could have
>possibly failed (if something did), to cause this. Lenny

Induction motors need "slip" to operate properly. A figure of 5% or
less is typical.

http://www.electricmotors.machinedesign.com/guiEdits/Content/bdeee11/bdeee11_7.aspx

"Synchronous speed is the absolute upper limit of motor speed. At
synchronous speed, there is no difference between rotor speed and
rotating field speed, so no voltage is induced in the rotor bars,
hence no torque is developed. Therefore, when running, the rotor must
rotate slower than the magnetic field. The rotor speed is just slow
enough to cause the proper amount of rotor current to flow, so that
the resulting torque is sufficient to overcome windage and friction
losses, and drive the load. This speed difference between the rotor
and magnetic field, called slip, is normally referred to as a
percentage of synchronous speed."

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 2:41 pm
From: "Homer J Simpson"

<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1173389826.162161.170040@n33g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

> I disassembled the motor cleaned it and lubricated it with ATF. It
> appears to be in very good condition. There is no end play in the
> bushings and very little apparent wear. It starts better now and comes
> right up to full speed, however the speed is 1720RPM either loaded or
> running free. Same as before the cleaning. There seems to be four
> poles which would suggest 1800RPM as you mentioned. Is it
> theoretically possible for a four pole motor to operate at 1720RPM?

Yes

> Varying the line voltage around 120V has very little effect on speed
> so it appears that it is running synchronously.

No.

> There is no capacitor
> externally or internally. I just can't imagine what could have
> possibly failed (if something did), to cause this. Lenny

You'd have to pull it apart to see, but it is possible that the rotor bars
have melted the solder. I doubt it though.

IME, it is the bearings. I would try to strip the oil with a solvent, check
for ANY play, and relubricate with Oilite lubricant.

Oilite: oil impregnated bronze bearings

==============================================================================
TOPIC: IE1394
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/ba366e43651b5c1c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 2:37 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 12:51:38 -0700, UCLAN wrote:

> Meat Plow wrote:
>
>>>No. I search for "HDTV tuner" or "HDTV receiver." I read the
>>>individual product specs to see if it has firewire (IEEE1394.)
>>
>> Ok then you're stupid.
>
> Oh? My way I learn about all the HDTV tuners and receivers on
> the market, not just those with firewire ports. Your way...
> just *what* do you accomplish your way?

Accomplish what the original poster wanted hence the subject:

Re: IE1394

"HDTV tuners with IE1394 ports" IIRC.

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT? - Broken Fridge
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/f49f9253f3954fa7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 4:01 pm
From: "Captain Midnight"

"Yukio YANO" <yano@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Tr7Jh.13286$DN.1062@pd7urf2no...
> b wrote:
> > Gummo ha escrito:
> >> My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look
good
> >> for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.
> >>
> >> The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago
and
> >> knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
> >> something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or
Hoover?
> >>
> >> Gummo
> >
> > cross posted to sci electronics repair. maybe someone there cn shed
> > some light on the cause .
> >
> There is a 5 year warranty on the Compressor !
>
> There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!
>
> I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to
> speed up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put
> it on a dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save
> everybody a lot of time and trouble.
> The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place
> a large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the
> pan with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is
> scratch the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under
warranty.
>
> Yukio YANO

I use a hair dryer on low heat even though I own a heat gun. Above freezing
air is practically as effective as hot air. Air flow is more important than
temperature. Still air has a boundary layer, that acts like insulation, you
want to keep broken.Water forms a boundary layer too. That's why bath water
feels warmer when you move after a period of soaking.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 4:07 pm
From: "Homer J Simpson"

"Captain Midnight" <Notany@twip.invalid> wrote in message
news:45f5cf8d$0$4876$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...

> I use a hair dryer on low heat even though I own a heat gun. Above
> freezing
> air is practically as effective as hot air. Air flow is more important
> than
> temperature. Still air has a boundary layer, that acts like insulation,
> you
> want to keep broken.Water forms a boundary layer too. That's why bath
> water
> feels warmer when you move after a period of soaking.

I've used a fan heater on low.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 2:36 am
From: James Sweet

>
> There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!
>
> I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to
> speed up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put
> it on a dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save
> everybody a lot of time and trouble.
> The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place
> a large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the
> pan with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is
> scratch the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under warranty.
>

What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and
let the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator
coils. That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few
very old refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nec 17inch LCD Monitor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/a2c086d8cd339bd1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 4:25 pm
From: "Sofie"

snipped:
"Dick" <richard@phazer.com> wrote in message
news:hv1Jh.1031$2%3.969@trndny06...

> it is something else. Anybody had this problem with this model ?
> NEC 1700V LCD.
> Thanks,
> Dick
>
- - -- - - - - - - - --

Yea.... I had one, same model, it was a bad inverter board.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Solder sniffers beware,,, lead = bad
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/56318d7d19a6c5dd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 4:47 pm
From: MassiveProng

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 09:27:17 -0500, TINYPRONG Gave us:

>On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 20:28:13 -0800 MassiveProng
><MassiveProng@thebarattheendoftheuniverse.org> wrote in Message id:
><sfo1v29e4dk89jfb04jru78pma1gldg4ej@4ax.com>:
>
>> I am more like an electric eel that has stunned you with the facts.
>
>Oh fuck off - I picture you more like a miserable gimp drooling over a
>keyboard, leaving greasy nose prints on the screen.

I have a 32" Wide Screen FPD. I sit 5 feet from it, dumbfuck.

Pumped by an 8800 superclocked. My HD DVDs get displayed full res.
Do you even have high definition?

Your pathetic remark is about you, and what you saw when you looked
in the mirror. You are like the dog that doesn't even know it is his
own reflection.

My setup beats yours any day, and that includes what I myself am
capable of doing to you.

Reflect on that wussy boy.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 5:00 pm
From: MassiveProng

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 11:20:59 -0400, ..who do you think..?
<everywhere.cor> Gave us:

>
>>> I can sit here at the bar at the end of the universe, listening to
>>>The Band, and the original Genesis
>
>>>>>>>> GUFFAW! What utter rubbish!
>
>
>I wasn't a 'Band' fan, but the original Genesis was just awesome..
>
>Here's an old fart days (.com) story, very true..
>
>I'm working in a music store in Medford MA, Pampalone Music,
>and never heard of the band 'Genesis'. Vito (the owner) asks me
>to handle this Brit guy walking in, wanting to rent a Ric 12-st,
>and a Bass amp. We got a GMT 300B and 4-12 bass reflex cab
>ready, and in walks 'Mike'. He plays the Ric, loves it, plays a Pbass
>thru the amp, ADORES IT, and asks the rental fee. Vito wants a $2k
>deposit...Mike has cash. Vito wants me to go with the gear. I'm on
>the clock, no problem. Vito (RIP) is an upright guy..pure class.
>
>..except when he got caught printing 'fake' books..but anyway..
>
>His store sold SoundCity SMFs off the floor, and WEM PA's..
>
>I go to Boston, and set up the amp, hang around back stage, and
>the fire marshall will NOT allow the fun and games that Genesis was
>well know for. Roadie says ok, and removes the charges in front of
>the stage. FM goes away. Roadie re-loads them. We all laugh.
>
>Show goes on, I'm blown away, simply awesome, unless you've
>seen the show then (ie: the 1st live LP) U have no clue. PG is
>in front of the stage, black cape, day-glo paint, and then..BOOM!
>
>Charges go off. PG is in a silver top hat and tails, going crazy
>finishing the song. FM is PISSED OFF ! Don Law, the promoter,
>is laughing so hard he fell backwards on the floor. Show ends.
>
>Mike wants to keep the amp, and the guitar, and asks me to come
>back to the Hotel Party later. I call Vito, who wants $1k more
>
>Mike, while pouring white powder into his opened up Winston,
>hands me the K, and a bottle. Vito never asked for the $1k, and
>was happy just to sell the Ric (well shop worn) and the amp.
>
>ASAP, , I buy the Genesis Live LP, and became a fan
>till PG left. Later in NYC, Mike remembered the deal, said
>the amp is in his studio..the guitar, on stage now.
>
>Ya can't make this stuff up.

They were truly awesome!

I envy your experiences.

I'll bet he didn't have any stinking cadmium speaker nuts!

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 2:00 am
From: "Stephen Cowell"

"MassivePlong" <MassivePlong@thebarfattheendoftheuniverse.org> wrote
> On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 09:27:17 -0500, TINYPRONG Gave us:
>>On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 20:28:13 -0800 MassivePvong
>><MassivePvong@thebarfattheendoftheuniverse.org> wrote
>>> I am more like an electric eel that has stunned you with the facts.
>>
>>Oh fuck off - I picture you more like a miserable gimp drooling over a
>>keyboard, leaving greasy nose prints on the screen.
>
> I have a 32" Wide Screen FPD. I sit 5 feet from it, dumbfuck.
>
> Pumped by an 8800 superclocked. My HD DVDs get displayed full res.
> Do you even have high definition?
>
> Your pathetic remark is about you, and what you saw when you looked
> in the mirror. You are like the dog that doesn't even know it is his
> own reflection.
>
> My setup beats yours any day, and that includes what I myself am
> capable of doing to you.
>
> Reflect on that wussy boy.

Excellent Troll! You made him shit all over
himself... I am indeed humbled.
__
Steve
.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HP Printer
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/06d57eab25570eb9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 5:01 pm
From: "Dick"

does anyone know what part I need to replace to make this printer work ?
The Make: HP
The Model PSC 1610
Age : About two years

The Problem: Keeps taking paper in ,it goes in to far and reports a paper
jam.
If you push the OK button,it spits the paper out and takes in a new sheet of
paper.
It does this without being hooked up to the computer.

Thanks,
Dick

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 5:37 pm
From: "Homer J Simpson"

"Dick" <richard@phazer.com> wrote in message
news:rRlJh.8361$t8.3869@trndny02...

> does anyone know what part I need to replace to make this printer work ?
> The Make: HP
> The Model PSC 1610
> Age : About two years
>
> The Problem: Keeps taking paper in ,it goes in to far and reports a paper
> jam.
> If you push the OK button,it spits the paper out and takes in a new sheet
> of paper.
> It does this without being hooked up to the computer.

Tried running a cleaning sheet through it?

Also fixyourownprinter.com

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 6:05 pm
From: Lionel

On Tue, 13 Mar 2007 00:01:27 GMT, "Dick" <richard@phazer.com> wrote:

>does anyone know what part I need to replace to make this printer work ?
>The Make: HP
>The Model PSC 1610
>Age : About two years
>
>The Problem: Keeps taking paper in ,it goes in to far and reports a paper
>jam.

I'm not familiar with that particular model, but this sort of error is
usually caused either by the /leading/ edge of the page not being
detected by the second paper sensor, or the /trailing/ edge not being
detected by the first paper sensor.
Likely causes: Either stuck/gunked up/displaced/dusty paper sensor, or
a misaligned paper roller. Take off the covers & look for black
slotted interrupters, possibly triggered by a plastic arm or wheel.
If the printer won't run with the covers off, try replacing the
covers, feeding a page, & turning off the printer when the error comes
up. That should make it a lot easier to locate the paper sensors.

--
W "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
. | ,. w ,
\|/ \|/ Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 6:47 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 13 Mar 2007 12:05:16 +1100, Lionel wrote:

> On Tue, 13 Mar 2007 00:01:27 GMT, "Dick" <richard@phazer.com> wrote:
>
>>does anyone know what part I need to replace to make this printer work ?
>>The Make: HP
>>The Model PSC 1610
>>Age : About two years
>>
>>The Problem: Keeps taking paper in ,it goes in to far and reports a paper
>>jam.
>
> I'm not familiar with that particular model, but this sort of error is
> usually caused either by the /leading/ edge of the page not being
> detected by the second paper sensor, or the /trailing/ edge not being
> detected by the first paper sensor.
> Likely causes: Either stuck/gunked up/displaced/dusty paper sensor, or
> a misaligned paper roller. Take off the covers & look for black
> slotted interrupters, possibly triggered by a plastic arm or wheel.
> If the printer won't run with the covers off, try replacing the
> covers, feeding a page, & turning off the printer when the error comes
> up. That should make it a lot easier to locate the paper sensors.

Google PSC 1610 jams.
--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

==============================================================================
TOPIC: New meter! :-)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/d18357622abc4807?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 12 2007 5:09 pm
From: "Starflex"

Hi!
I'm an italian student and I'm searching a new meter for my hobby.
In this moment, I'm trying to repair a monitor, but I sometimes repair bike,
sometimes I work in the electric euipment of cars, etc.
So, I'm searching a meter (not too expensive... I'm a student!), and I'm
looking for Meterman meters.
What do you thing about this meter? They are a little bit cheaper than
Fluke..Can you indicate me a model, for my uses (...I think, general
purpose...)?
I was looking for "38xr" meterman...what do you think about this?

Thank you a lot, and sorry for my bad english! :-)

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TOPIC: repeating character
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/1c7b76fdedb4f331?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 2:15 am
From: Ross Herbert

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 09:47:50 -0500, JW <none@dev.nul> wrote:

>On Sat, 10 Mar 2007 16:43:03 -0500 "Charles Schuler"
><charleschuler@comcast.net> wrote in Message id:
><1qqdnb3gC-z0u27YnZ2dnUVZ_q2pnZ2d@comcast.com>:
>
>>A drop of WD40 can't hurt.
>
>It could attack the plastic. I use silicone spray for sticky keys on
>my trusty IBM desktop keyboard. (20 years old and still going!)
>More than likely this won't help the OP, though.

Silicone spray for keyboard contacts????

Silicone is an insulator and is migratory in nature. By that I mean
that you may intend to spray it as a lubricant on moving mechanical
parts but it will soon migrate to electrical contacts in close
proximity (eg. relays). Silicon grease was banned for use anywhere
around relay or other mechanical contacts in telephone exchanges back
in the 70's because it started causing havoc with open circuit or
intermittent contacts on relays.

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Tuesday, March 13, 2007

25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

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