photo: 24 new messages in 13 topics

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yamaha cd player spindle problem??
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/de36db40954d0e1a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 11:40 am
From: "Mark D. Zacharias"

TJB wrote:
> "Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@nonsense.net> wrote in
> news:%cbJh.2776$Qw.2073@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net:
>
>
>>
>> Try to get the exact same motor number. The different model suffixes
>> often relate to the length of the motor spindle (shaft).
>>
>> Carefully measure the spindle platter height before you remove it.
>> Also, be aware that you won't likely be able to get it installed on
>> the new motor "quite" true, meaning that you will probably have some
>> spindle motor wobble after the new motor is installed. Shouldn't
>> really be a problem, but I thought it should be mentioned...
>>
>>
>> Mark Z.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Mark, this may be a dumb question but I am going to ask anyway. Why
> would putting the platter onto a new motor cause any more wobble than
> with the current motor??? It has one of those pressed on plastic
> platters and assuming I don't bend the spindle.
>
>
> TJB

It's just been my experience. The original was pressed on with a machine.
You and I press it on by hand and it doesn't wind up that the disc will
rotate quite as flat as the original once the job is done. Like I said, it;s
not really a big deal. The focus servo will just have to work a little
harder.

Mark Z.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: JVC VCR HR-S6965 Repair Assistance
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/9c5e593172046bd8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 11:42 am
From: "Mark D. Zacharias"

ellis.rich@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My colleague and I are trying to repair his JVC VCR HR-S6965 which was
> recently subject to a power surge. It appears that some components in
> the PSU have blown and we are trying to locate a schematic for this
> circuit so we can debug it and repair.
>
> Also, one of the transistors in this area of the circuit (Q5102) which
> appears to have the part number 2SD1450 appears to have become
> obsolete since manufacture and we were wondering if anyone knew of a
> 'drop-in' replacement part?
>
> Many thanks for any help!!

Could that have been a 2SD1458 ? I've seen a number of those used in vcr
switchers... and they are available.

Mark Z.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT? - Broken Fridge
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/268ff360702810fe?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 8:26 am
From: Sam Goldwasser

James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

> >
> > There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!
> >
> > I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to
> > speed up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put
> > it on a dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save
> > everybody a lot of time and trouble.
> > The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place
> > a large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the
> > pan with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is
> > scratch the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under warranty.
>
> What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and
> let the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator
> coils. That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few
> very old refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.

Cost, cost, cost, cost. :)

What's wrong with a couple pans of hot water, rags at bottom, close the door,
wait an hour while you do something else! People who have to have instant
gratification for a task that's performed once a year if that! :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/

+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm

| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 5:49 pm
From: "DaveM"

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rPoJh.11757$mh7.4952@trnddc04...
>
>>>
>>>
>>>What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and let
>>>the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator coils.
>>>That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few very old
>>>refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Admittedly not a refrigerator, but still a refrigeration system, heat pump
>> HVAC systems do exactly that... the valves in the system are arranged and
>> switched so that as the condenser on the outside unit collects frost and
>> eventually ices up (heat pump mode), the system reverses the valves and the
>> condenser is heated and the ice melts (defrost mode). When the system
>> determines that the ice has melted, it switches the valves back to heat mode.
>> In defrost mode, the system is essentially an air conditioner.
>>
>
>
> Yes I'm quite familiar with those having installed several of them. Most heat
> pumps you'll find out there don't actually sense frost buildup but rather have
> a simple interval timer which triggers a defrost cycle every 30, 60, or 90
> minutes. A defrost termination thermostat senses the temperature of the line
> out of the outdoor coil (which is the evaporator in heating mode) and returns
> the the unit to heating mode when this trips. I modified my own unit with a
> surplus vacuum operated sensor I found, it has a diaphragm which uses the
> pressure drop from the fan across the coil when it ices up to trip a switch
> which is then reset by a capillary tube and bulb in the location where the
> original DT thermostat was located. In my climate this dramatically reduced
> the number of energy wasting unnecessary defrost cycles, not sure how well it
> would work elsewhere. It's a big boost to comfort as well, my backup heat is a
> gas furnace so I can only run one or the other, a defrost cycle means an icy
> blast of cold air which can drop the room temperature by several degrees. A/C
> is very efficient when the condenser is down near freezing. Other methods have
> been tried in the past but all I've seen until very recently are the timers.
> Some very high end units today use a demand defrost system which monitors
> trends in the evaporator temperature to determine when a defrost is necessary,
> I have no experience with these so I can't say whether they work well or not.

Yeppers... Until a few years ago, I had an old GE Weathertron heat pump system.
Terribly inefficient by today's standards, but it got the job done. It had a
vacuum sensor in the outside unit that sensed a drop in air pressure inside the
coils, whereupon it switched into defrost mode. It ran the auxillary heat
strips while in defrost mode to keep from cooling the house while in defrost. A
capillary sensed the coil temperature and switched back into heat pump mode when
the coil temp got high enough. It worked quite well; only went into defrost
when necessary.

Scared me the first time I saw it defrosting... the big column of vapor steaming
up from the unit was awesome. I thought the thing was on fire!!

I had to replace the entire system when the compressor locked up after 25 or so
years of operation. Don't know how the Lennox system I bought as the
replacement determines that it needs to defrost... could be a timer. But it
seems to work well, even in sub-freezing temps and high Florida humidity.

Cheers!!!
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it goes.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 10:36 pm
From: "Homer J Simpson"

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:sPadnaR7F9HBgWrYnZ2dnUVZ_hmtnZ2d@comcast.com...

> I had to replace the entire system when the compressor locked up after 25
> or so years of operation. Don't know how the Lennox system I bought as
> the replacement determines that it needs to defrost... could be a timer.
> But it seems to work well, even in sub-freezing temps and high Florida
> humidity.

These days you are better off to look at one of the Japanese split system
heat pumps.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 6:55 pm
From: "Captain Midnight"

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@blue.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wlki15nyg.fsf@blue.seas.upenn.edu...
>
> What's wrong with a couple pans of hot water, rags at bottom, close the
door,
> wait an hour while you do something else! People who have to have instant
> gratification for a task that's performed once a year if that! :)
>

I love the gratification of my food not spoiling. What are you doing for
gratification while the pan is in the fridge? ;^)

I'm guessing it'd take at least 12 hours of hot water to completely defrost
my old fridge. I take out the panels and keep at it to get it all not just
enough to get some air flow. First time was when the defrost timer was only
working on every other cycle and ~ten years later to try and save it. Didn't
want to put any money into a 25 year old so didn't bother doing any
troubleshooting. Do they still sell fridges that aren't "frost free"?.

Actually it was 3 times. Didn't realize the timer had 2 cycles the first
time. IIRC the second cleaning was less than a year later. Soon enough I
knew it had a problem at any rate.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nec 17inch LCD Monitor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/a2c086d8cd339bd1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 3:44 pm
From: "Matti"

Check smd-fuses on the inverter-board!

Matti

"Dick" <richard@phazer.com> wrote in message
news:hv1Jh.1031$2%3.969@trndny06...
> Got a NEC 17inch monitor when powered up,stays on for about a second
> and quits. The screen looks normal for that second.
> I suppose it could be the inverter board,but I don't want to spend the
> $75. if
> it is something else. Anybody had this problem with this model ?
> NEC 1700V LCD.
> Thanks,
> Dick
>

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 11:12 pm
From: "Dick"

I checked those two fuses on the inverter board, AOK. I don't think the
screen would even light at all if those fuses were bad. I guess I will throw
it to the recycle center.
Thanks,
Dick
"Dick" <richard@phazer.com> wrote in message
news:hv1Jh.1031$2%3.969@trndny06...
> Got a NEC 17inch monitor when powered up,stays on for about a second
> and quits. The screen looks normal for that second.
> I suppose it could be the inverter board,but I don't want to spend the
> $75. if
> it is something else. Anybody had this problem with this model ?
> NEC 1700V LCD.
> Thanks,
> Dick
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HP Printer
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/6d57eab25570eb9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 3:33 pm
From: "Ron(UK)"

Homer J Simpson wrote:

>
> There is a rubber tire reconditioner used for record players (the cheap kind
> with a rubber tire). Don't know what's in it though.
>
The stuff I`ve had for donkey's years contains xylene - very nasty
stuff - works a treat tho.

Ron(UK)

--
Lune Valley Audio
Public Address Systems
Hire Sales Maintenance
www.lunevalleyaudio.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Consumers choice in Electronic products
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/c680f57a661cd58?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 11:33 am
From: tpraja@gmail.com

Description

A wide range of imported consumer products electronic items. Ranging
from cd players to video cameras.price:INR 150.
Elect shoppe,No. 24, Burma Complex. Thelma Road,siliguri,west
bengal,india.
url:http://www.geocities.com/elect
ph:32657878, fax:32657878

General details
Sold by sarhaan sarki
Email Contact seller
Phone 32657878

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 11:50 am
From: tpraja@gmail.com

Description

General details
Sold by sarhaan sarki
Email Contact seller
Phone 32657878

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 12:09 pm
From: palanivelraaja@gmail.com

General details
Sold by sarhaan sarki
Email Contact seller
Phone 32657878

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Verify a(maybe) dying diode caused by a bad capacitor???
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/98a1d9d1116084b3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 12:18 pm
From: "Jeroni Paul"

Eeyore wrote:
> Bad advice.
>
> Some components may have been stressed by the fault The charring near the diode
> indicates this.
>
> There's NO WAY to prove the diode hasn't had its reliability compromised through
> overheating so it should be replaced as a precaution.

The charring proves that the diode has always run hot and it is likely
the way it is meant to be. A board is not charred in just a few hours
of operation.

Messing and replacing these diodes is a good way to risk the power
supply, and given that it runs hot I would be very careful with the
type I replace it with, get it wrong and you may blow the supply again.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: help, voltage problms abroad
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/8e3c4bba92be92cc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 7:33 pm
From: "Neil J. Harris"

In message <1173365184.524897.266460@s48g2000cws.googlegroups.com>,
alexeiofnewark@gmail.com writes
>i forgot to switch to 230v when plugging in my american desktop in
>france, there was a pop, and now it wont start. did i completely break
>it or is there a circuit breaker or something i can fix
>
All the desktop PSUs I've seen have an internal fuse inside. I think it
would be necessary for UL listing. Sometimes though it's a "wire-ended"
type and can only be replaced with the use of a soldering iron.
I do remember once replacing a "wire-ended" one with a standard plug-in
one by fitting a fuse-holder, the PCB was layed out for both. You could
well find wording like "for continued protection against fire replace
only with the specified fuse" and also the fuse rating silk screened
onto the PCB.
Standard ATX PSU's are cheap and readily available and there must be
millions of serviceable ones thrown away in PCs deemed "out of date"
because their beige colour didn't match the décor.
An empty case with a PSU in it costs little more than a PSU alone, and
you could have one in a pretty colour too.
You could probably get a PSU with a universal input voltage range
(100Vac to 240Vac) (or even AC/DC) these days and not have to worry
about making the same mistake again!
--
Neil J. Harris

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 8:35 pm
From: Esther & Fester Bestertester

> its in the desktop, do i need a new one or can they be fixed?

Go to a few computer stores and ask if they carry your brand of computer.
Tell them you need a new power supply (with France's input voltage
settings!). If it is for the same make/model, it should have all the same
connectors and be a fairly straightforward install. If all you can find is a
"generic" power supply (you must match the watts rating on your old power
supply to the new one -- sometimes it is stated like "200W"), it should be a
no more than a bit of a small puzzle to make it work for someone with basic
computer/electronic skills (I'm sure you know *someone*).

Good luck,
FBt

==============================================================================
TOPIC: audio amplifier- recommedations
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/f6298e051d9e478f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 8:05 pm
From: Leo Tick

This is a sort of repair question. On a site I wish to use the volume is
too low even when all available controls are set to max. Earphones are
marginal speakers would need a hearing aid. I realize this a a software
problem (widows and all browsers likely the site) I believe that
solution path is not available . It's not the sound hardware since other
sources are quite loud. ISTM that an audio amplifier is a good solution.
I only need about a doubling of the current volume and since this is
only speech, wide band is not needed. Can someone suggest a simple that
means -cheap device. A kit would be fine. What specs do I need after all
the input level is not low and in truth I dont need a power supply as I
have the computer power or a box full of cubes.
All suggestion are appreciated.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 8:59 pm
From: et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Michael Black)

Leo Tick (tick@cs.nyu.edu) writes:
> This is a sort of repair question.

It's not a repair issue.

It's a basic question. So if you are asking about building an amplifier,
or the concept, you ask in sci.electronics.basics If you are asking about a
commercially made amplifier, then you ask in one of the newsgroups in the
rec.audio.* Likely there are even other places to ask, but laziness
has made you ask in a newsgroup that is about the repair of electronic
devices.

Michael

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Strange LCD monitor symptom. MASCOT V chip?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/dd34eed81941376e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 8:09 pm
From: mike

I have a Sharp LL-T15A4-S LCD monitor.
Here's the symptom:
The screen is 12" wide.
Draw a vertical line 2" from the left side.
To the left of the line, the picture is perfect.
To the right of the line, every other horizontal
line is missing. Alternate horizontal lines
are perfect on the right of the line.

I can't think of a panel defect that could cause this.
Gotta be some addressing problem in the control chip.

I've been looking for information on the
CK1659 MASCOT V chip and the CS8528N chip in between
the MASCOT V and the panel.

I tried setting up a white screen, triggering on the
vertical sync and recording a few horizontal lines.
Instead of a clean signal, I see a LOT of noise and
maybe some places there's no signal, but it doesn't
correlate to the missing lines on the screen.
Shouldn't I expect clean digital signals to the panel?

Any info on how the MASCOT V works or FREE schematics of
this particular monitor? I did find a schematic of another
monitor with the MASCOT V chip and the signal names
suggest something about even and odd. But only part
of the odd horizontal lines have a problem.

I have lots of time and a desire to learn about this,
but I'm not willing to spend money on it.

Ideas?
Thanks, mike

--
Return address is VALID!
Bunch-O-Stuff Forsale Here:
http://nm7u.tripod.com/homepage/sale.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Single mother in need of explanation
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/cb73cca2dc0f8e36?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 3:06 pm
From: "Dumb_Blonde"

Thank you in advance for your time. I found a neat project to do with
my 14 year old son, but would like to know the science behind it so it
will be educational.

Here is the video link.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/470767/firecracker_rocket_project_experiment/

It is a fire cracker experiment, and I know he will love it, but I am
clueless as to how this makes my car run.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 6:39 pm
From: **THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**

I assume the can is open on one end like a soup can, not a coke can. I
think the water is there to provide an airtight, frictionless seal for
more effect. Keeping the firercracker dry is tricky. This looks like a
good use for the hundreds of firecrackers I have left over!

What he is simulating is the explosion that happens in one of your cars
engine cylinders. A car engine operates on a series of small controlled
explosions. In your car, the explosive force drives a piston down,
pushing a connecting rod which in turn rotates a crankshaft. A car
engine has 4 to 8 cylinders which fire sequentially and smoothly. The
links below illustrate this with a single cylinder like a lawnmower
engine. These are "internal combustion engines".

My sister did a similar science project years ago with a coffee can
fitted with a spark plug and filled with a very small amount of gasoline
or ether. A plastic lid was placed on top and an ignition coil made a
spark which blew the plastic lid off. Not as dramatic as a fire cracker.

http://www.keveney.com/otto.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_cycle

Dumb_Blonde wrote:

>Thank you in advance for your time. I found a neat project to do with
>my 14 year old son, but would like to know the science behind it so it
>will be educational.
>
>Here is the video link.
>
>http://www.metacafe.com/watch/470767/firecracker_rocket_project_experiment/
>
>It is a fire cracker experiment, and I know he will love it, but I am
>clueless as to how this makes my car run.
>
>
>

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

"Follow The Money" ;-P

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 7:25 pm
From: "Captain Midnight"

"**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**" <rhyolite@nettally.com> wrote in message
news:45f72822$0$4929$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> I assume the can is open on one end like a soup can, not a coke can. I
> think the water is there to provide an airtight, frictionless seal for
> more effect. Keeping the firercracker dry is tricky. This looks like a
> good use for the hundreds of firecrackers I have left over!
>
> What he is simulating is the explosion that happens in one of your cars
> engine cylinders. A car engine operates on a series of small controlled
> explosions. In your car, the explosive force drives a piston down,
> pushing a connecting rod which in turn rotates a crankshaft. A car
> engine has 4 to 8 cylinders which fire sequentially and smoothly. The
> links below illustrate this with a single cylinder like a lawnmower
> engine. These are "internal combustion engines".
>
> My sister did a similar science project years ago with a coffee can
> fitted with a spark plug and filled with a very small amount of gasoline
> or ether. A plastic lid was placed on top and an ignition coil made a
> spark which blew the plastic lid off. Not as dramatic as a fire cracker.
>
> http://www.keveney.com/otto.html
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_cycle
>
> Dumb_Blonde wrote:
>
> >Thank you in advance for your time. I found a neat project to do with
> >my 14 year old son, but would like to know the science behind it so it
> >will be educational.
> >
> >Here is the video link.
> >
>
>http://www.metacafe.com/watch/470767/firecracker_rocket_project_experiment/
> >
> >It is a fire cracker experiment, and I know he will love it, but I am
> >clueless as to how this makes my car run.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Joe Leikhim K4SAT
> "The RFI-EMI-GUY"©
>

Their is no explosion in a properly operating internal combustion engine.
The fuel merely heats the air. The expansion of the air pushes the piston.
An explosion called detonation or knock can put a hole in the piston. Some
engines require higher octane fuel to keep knock from occurring.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: controls for electric cooktop
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/2b7830b075c2cdee?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 4:22 pm
From: "moley"

Hi,

I have an older (10Y) Amanc cooktop, Model AKE 35. After about 9
Years, the temperature controls started to get flakey. One would have
to jiggle to keep the burner hot and rotate the control carefully to
keep the connection made. First one, then another. I bought 4 new
control switches and installed them. They lasted about six monthe
before they became flaky too. I bought 4 more from another parts
vendor and they lasted six months. I bought 4 more from Amana (pricy)
and they looked and were marked exactly the same as all the others I
had bought. They too became intermittant after about six months.

All these controls only have a 90 day warranty but still, one should
be able to expect years of service from such controls. Maytag tells me
to go scratch and just buy four more. I think I will not just send off
another $90 without trying to find out what the problem might be.
After each replacement the cook top works perfectly so I am sure there
is no problem with the installation. I suspect a new supplier has been
making these controls for a coule of years and hasen't got it right
yet. Can everyone who replaces these controls be having such short
life? We are a two person family and are not heavy users of this
cooktop.

I hate to throw away a fine cookstove because I cant find a reliable
switch. Thanks for any advice suggestions etc.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Estimating transformer voltage for B&K CS117 preamp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/thread/afe00cf6d288dac3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 4:37 pm
From: "powerdoc"

I have a CS-117 with a defunct transformer. The factory won't sell me
parts and the value of the unit will be exceeded by the repair costs.
Is there a way to estimate the value of the ac output (it looks like a
center - tapped output with 3 wires) so I can get this back on the
road?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 13 2007 4:56 pm
From: meow2222@care2.com

On 13 Mar, 23:37, "powerdoc" <dkingl...@mindspring.com> wrote:
> I have a CS-117 with a defunct transformer. The factory won't sell me
> parts and the value of the unit will be exceeded by the repair costs.
> Is there a way to estimate the value of the ac output (it looks like a
> center - tapped output with 3 wires) so I can get this back on the
> road?

For a preamp, look at hte electrolytics. Also look at the volt reg,
both voltage and type, if it uses one.

==============================================================================

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Wednesday, March 14, 2007

24 new messages in 13 topics - digest

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